The early season is finally here, and the October crops are starting to come in. It’s Hamlins for juice and in no time, it will be Ambersweets for body. The Florida citrus industry has always grown hand-in-hand with how safely the fruit can make it to market. Early on, it was wagon to river landings, then steamboats to Jacksonville. The port docks there would begin filling with barrels and pallets starting in October. When the railroad arrived, the economics shifted dramatically and crates replaced barrels and the transit time north dropped from weeks to days.
Then, the great freezes of 1894-95 delivered its toughest blow to North Florida growers and forced orange production south to the lower 2/3 of the state. When that citrus belt was established, it was rail access, not river landings that determined where new groves were planted. And, boy, did those new orange groves grow!
Citrus has always been synonymous with Florida and its history on the First Coast stretches back to the earliest Spanish explorers and the first seeds planted near St. Augustine in the 1500s. Folklore says it was Ponce de Leon himself who brought the first seeds ashore during his explorations, and whether or not they were dropped in the soil by his own hand, they certainly thrived.
Commercial production of Florida oranges would have to wait another 300 years to grow into an industry and while the devastating freezes after the Civil War knocked the growers down, they were not defeated. Within one full generation, by 1950, more than 100 million boxes of citrus were being picked. By 1970, that number had reached 200 million according to the Florida Department of Citrus. Some Florida legacy trees at one time produced up to 10,000 oranges per season.
In Palm Valley, several well-maintained old trees are still thriving in protective natural micro-climates. Others are doing equally well south of Julington Creek being cared for by enthusiasts, private orchardists and citriculturists who see the value in keeping old stock active with cuttings and grafts. And what they do best is often far from the public eye.
The most delicious citrus in Florida is the citrus that is picked and arrives prepared at a table within 30 minutes. That might seem like an impossible feat to many, but it’s a concept that certainly would have been championed by Juan Ponce de Leon himself. “Fresh Florida Citrus.”
In 1717, the South Carolina Gazette documented that oranges were shipped into Charleston directly from Spanish controlled St. Augustine. In 1763, Jesse Fish established the first commercial citrus groves on the First Coast and records of shipments of fruit out of Florida appeared in writing in 1776. The Florida Department of Citrus documents this history, and today the citrus industry in Florida employs more than 32,500 people and provides an annual economic impact of $6.9 billion to the state. The FDOC is governed by the Florida Citrus Commission, and the executive agency covers every aspect of the industry including research, production, maturity standards, licensing, packing and processing.
As a community, Florida citrus growers are passionate and dedicated. Their goal is simple: “work tirelessly to bring the highest quality, best-tasting Florida citrus to your table.” Sustainable agriculture works and it delivers results. The Orange Blossom? The official Florida State Flower. America’s favorite juice? Orange juice, of course.
Most groves in Florida are family-owned and operated by multi-generational growers. Some groves offer tours and You-Pick, and it’s well worth seeking them out. The orange belt begins mostly south of Ocala, but some groves are closer in Citra and west of Fort McCoy. “Taste the Florida Difference” because citrus is part of the culture and heritage of the Sunshine State and citriculture is a science.
As October settles in, nearly every one of us should remind ourselves of the health benefits of Florida citrus. The fruit contains a variety of vitamins and minerals associated with “cardiovascular health, immune system support, skin health, iron absorption, cognitive function, respiratory health, kidney health, inflammation and oxidative stress, weight management and diabetes and metabolic syndrome.” These benefits and the science behind them are all expandable categories on the Florida Department of Citrus website. It’s certainly worth a look.
In the late 1960s, the Barnett Bank branch in San Marco and other locations served small paper cups of Florida Orange Juice for the benefit and comfort of their customers. A woman dressed in all-white, white shoes, white stockings, white dress and a white nurse’s cap would dispense the orange juice to kids and adults. The practice was part of the Florida community culture. “Our Oranges Mean Business.”
Thanksgiving is right around the corner and it’s time to start planning. So, grab your scissors and clip this column because if there’s one thing that defines fall on Florida’s First Coast, it’s Florida Ambrosia. Here’s Mamie Arlene DuPre’s extraordinary recipe:
In a sauce pan, stir together sugar and cornstarch. Stir in orange peel and orange juice. Cook while stirring over medium heat until thick and bubbling. Reduce heat and continue to cook for 2 minutes until smooth. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Cover and let cool.
To segment the fruit, use a sharp paring knife to slice away the peel and pith completely. Then cut directly along the inside of each thin membrane wall to pull out clean segments of pure fruit pulp.
In a large glass bowl, combine orange pulp, grapes, cherries and walnuts. Mix and fold in shredded coconut. Pour the orange sauce over the mix and toss. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for six hours. Dress with fresh mint and serve as a side dish. Excellent with Angel Food Cake. Serves 4 to 6. Double the recipe for 12 to 14.
Ambrosia is a delicious reminder of the best the Sunshine State has to offer in this smartly casual place of all places, Ponte Vedra Beach.
